Out the Door Price Calculator
| Line item | Typical range | Negotiable? |
|---|---|---|
| Doc / dealer fee | $80-500 | state caps vary - several states cap it hard |
| Destination charge | $995-1,995 | set by the maker, printed on the window sticker |
| Title, registration, tire/battery | $50-300 | government lines - real, not padding |
| Etch, nitrogen, fabric, VIN logos | $295-995 | decline - pure dealer margin |
Use this before or at the desk: enter the price you agreed on the car, the destination and doc fees on the buyer's order, your sales tax rate, and any trade-in or rebate - the calculator produces the out-the-door total, the only number a deal should be judged by.
Sticker price is not the argument; the paperwork is where deals change. Tax rides on the price (most states credit your trade first), destination is fixed by the maker, doc fees are capped by some states and invented by others, and the finance office adds etch and nitrogen if you let them. The out-the-door number folds all of it into one line you can compare across dealers - and across a payment offer, by dividing it by the term yourself.
How to use
- Enter the agreed vehicle price - the number on the line that says selling price, not MSRP.
- Add destination plus the dealer doc fee from the buyer's order, and set your sales tax rate with the slider.
- Enter trade-in credit and rebates, then negotiate against the out-the-door total - never against a monthly payment.
Frequently asked questions
What does out-the-door price include?
Everything you will actually pay to drive out: the agreed vehicle price, sales tax, destination charge, dealer doc fee, and title and registration, minus trade-in credit and rebates. A dealer quoting "out the door" has committed to the whole structure - which is exactly why you ask for it in writing before the finance office.
Is sales tax charged on the trade-in value?
In most states, no - the tax applies to the difference between the price and your trade-in credit, which is one of the quiet advantages of trading in. Some states tax the full price regardless, and a few treat rebates differently too. Your state DMV publishes the rule; this calculator runs the common case - trade credited, rebate subtracted after tax.
What dealer fees are legitimate?
Destination charge (set by the manufacturer, on the window sticker), title and registration (government lines), and a doc fee within your state's cap - several states cap it hard, others barely. What is never legitimate: etch, nitrogen, fabric protection, VIN etching logos - hundreds of dollars of margin for things your new car already has or does not need.
Why do dealers want to talk monthly payment?
Because a payment can absorb any number: stretch the term, adjust the rate, roll the add-ons in, and the monthly stays the same while the total balloons. The defense is to negotiate the out-the-door total first and only then discuss financing - on this calculator's number, not theirs.
Does the out-the-door rule apply to used cars?
Yes - and used-car buyers get one extra protection: the FTC's Used Car Rule requires every dealer to display a Buyers Guide on each vehicle, stating the cash price and the terms of the deal. The guide is the legal mirror of the out-the-door math; if the contract and the guide disagree, the guide is supposed to win.