Extension Cord Gauge Table

–voltage drop at your load and length, worst gauge first
Gauge (rating)25 ft50 ft100 ft
16 AWG (13A max)2.2%4.4%8.7%
14 AWG (15A max)1.6%3.2%6.3%
12 AWG (20A max)1.3%2.6%5.3%
10 AWG (30A max)1.2%2.5%5.0%
VD% = 2 × L × I × R ÷ V; drop under 3% = healthy, over 5% = heat, sag and stalled motors
GaugeRatingMax length for 15A under 3% drop
16 AWG13A30 ft
14 AWG15A45 ft
12 AWG20A55 ft
10 AWG30A60 ft
A cord is a resistor you pay for twice: every percent of drop becomes heat in the jacket and a weaker motor on the tool end - the classic failure is a shop vacuum or air compressor that runs fine up close and "loses power" on a 100-foot 16-gauge cord from the hardware store aisle. The fix is one number: for anything over 10 amps or 50 feet, 12 AWG is the default answer, and a generator owner buys 10 AWG once instead of a longer cord twice.
Generator companions: the generator size calculator sizes the unit, the fuel calculator prices the run, the runtime table stretches the tank, and the electricity cost calculator prices the watts the cord itself burns.

The extension cord aisle sells you length and hides the number that matters: gauge. A 100-foot 16-gauge cord and a 100-foot 12-gauge cord plug into the same outlet, but the 16-gauge delivers 10% less voltage at the far end - and that missing 12 volts comes back as heat in the cord, a sluggish motor, and electronics that reboot when the compressor kicks in.

Bottom line: for anything over 10 amps or about 50 feet, 12 AWG is the default answer; a generator owner buys one 10 AWG cord instead of a longer cord twice. Under 3% drop (3.6 volts on 120V) is healthy; over 5% you are heating the jacket and starving the motor.

The honest part: the drop numbers here are computed from standard copper resistance (VD% = 2 x L x I x R / V), not marketing copy, and they assume one tool per cord. Daisy-chaining two cords doubles the length and the drop - the 'I already have a cord' instinct is how 16-gauge 100-foot cords end up on table saws.

How to use

  1. Find your tool's amps (watts / 120) and your real cord length - the distance to the far outlet, not the cord's advertised stretch.
  2. Read your gauge row at that length: green is fine, over 3% is a warning for sustained loads, over 5% means size up or shorten.
  3. Check the rating column too: a 16-gauge cord is a 13-amp cord on paper - running a 15-amp heater through it fails twice, on heat and on code.
Good to know — Copper resistance values used in this table: 16 AWG 4.016 ohms per 1,000 ft, 14 AWG 2.525, 12 AWG 1.588, 10 AWG 0.999. Voltage drop for a single-phase circuit is VD% = 2 x length x current x resistance / voltage; on 120V, 3% is 3.6 volts and 5% is 6 volts. Cord ampacity ratings follow the small-conductor rules behind NEC 240.4(D) and UL cord listings: 16 AWG 13A, 14 AWG 15A, 12 AWG 20A, 10 AWG 30A.
Quick reference — Before winter, audit your cords once: write the gauge on both ends with a marker (the jacket printing fades), retire any cord that is warm at 50% load or has a loose blade, and keep exactly one 10 AWG 50-footer for generator nights. The moment you need a cord during an outage is the wrong moment to discover the 16-gauge one is a lamp cord.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a 16-gauge cord for a 1500-watt space heater?

No. 1500 watts is 12.5 amps; a 16 AWG cord is rated 13 amps and drops over 5% at just 50 feet (6 volts lost as heat in the cord). For a sustained 12.5-amp load the safe chart pick is 12 AWG up to 75 feet - the heater's own manual says 'plug directly into a wall outlet' for exactly this reason.

Does extension cord length really affect power tools?

Yes, measurably: on a 100-foot 16-gauge cord a 13-amp saw loses about 10% of its voltage (12 volts), which shows up as bogging under load, slower recovery, and hotter windings. The same saw on 12 AWG at 100 feet loses only 4% - the tool feels like itself again.

What gauge extension cord do I need for a generator?

One 10 AWG cord handles 30 amps (3,600 watts) at 100 feet with only 5% drop - it is the single-cord answer for running a fridge, a heater and lights from an outdoor generator. Size the unit with the generator size calculator, then buy the cord for the amps, not the distance you wish you had.

Why do cords get hot at the connections?

Heat follows resistance: a loose or corroded plug blade, a worn receptacle, or an underrated gauge all concentrate it. Warm jacket along the length means the cord is too small for the load - unplug it, let it cool, and read the table again with your real amps. Warm plugs with an in-range cord mean the connection, not the wire, needs replacing.

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