Sleeping Bag Temperature Table

Bag classComfortTypical limitPad R you need
Summer+10°C and above+5°C2-3
Warm 3-season+5 to +10°C0°C3
Standard 3-season0 to -5°C-10°C3-4
Winter-10°C and below-20°C5+
Expedition-20°C and below-30°C5+ and vapor barrier
Sleep by comfortlimit = survive, extreme = 6 h, never sleep
EN 13537 / ISO 23537comfort = standard woman, 8 h undisturbed
Ground steals firstpad R is half the system the rating assumes
Ratings are tested bag-on-pad together - pair a -10 bag with a 2-R summer pad and the night lands at -2. Stack order that works: dry base layer, hat, hot-water bottle at the core; sleeping in tomorrow's clothes compresses loft and lies to the rating.

A sleeping bag's temperature number is not the temperature you'll be comfortable at - it is one of three lines drawn through a standardized mannequin's night, and choosing by the wrong line is why people freeze in bags rated for the weather they camped in.

Bottom line: buy and sleep by the comfort rating, treat the lower limit as the survival-with-all-layers edge, and ignore the extreme number entirely - it is a six-hour survival figure, not a night's sleep. Summer bags start near +10 C comfort, three-season bags run 0 to -5 C, true winter bags live at -10 C and below.

The honest part: the rating assumes a sleeping pad underneath, and the ground steals more heat than the air does - a -10 C bag over a thin summer pad delivers a -2 C night at best. EN 13537 (now ISO 23537) tests bag on pad together; your under-insulation is half the system, and it is the half people buy last.

How to use

  1. Find the night's low on the table, then choose a bag whose comfort rating sits at or below that number - not its limit, not its extreme: comfort is the temperature a standard sleeper sleeps through undisturbed.
  2. Check the pad line in the table: each rating class assumes a minimum pad insulation (R-value), and pairing a -10 C bag with a 2-R summer pad voids the arithmetic - upgrade the pad before upgrading the bag.
  3. Dress the system: dry base layers, a hat, and a hot-water bottle at the core stretch a bag one class colder; wearing tomorrow's clothes inside the bag compresses loft and lies to you about the rating.
Good to know โ€” Rating ladder (EN 13537 / ISO 23537 comfort ranges): summer bags +10 C and above; +5 to +10 C warm three-season; 0 to -5 C standard three-season; -10 C winter; -20 C and below expedition. Three lines per bag: comfort (standard woman, 8 h undisturbed), lower limit (standard man, 8 h curled), extreme (6 h survival, never a sleep figure). Pad pairing per class: summer 2-3 R, three-season 3-4 R, winter 5+ R - the ground half of the system. Stack order: dry base layer, hat, hot water bottle at core; sleep in tomorrow's clothes never. Old scales: some budget bags still print TSV or self-tested numbers - treat any bag without EN/ISO marking as one class warmer than labeled.
Quick reference โ€” Buy the bag for the coldest honest night of your actual trips - not the coldest night you imagine - then carry a liner: a fleece liner adds roughly 3-5 C and turns a three-season bag into a shoulder-season system for a tenth of the weight of a winter bag you would use twice a year.

Frequently asked questions

What does the temperature on a sleeping bag actually mean?

Under EN 13537 / ISO 23537, bags carry three numbers: the comfort rating (a standard woman sleeps eight hours undisturbed), the lower limit (a standard man sleeps eight hours curled), and the extreme (survival for six hours - no sleep, no guarantee). The labels on budget bags sometimes cite old or self-set scales, which is why the table groups bags by season class with typical comfort ranges instead of trusting any single sticker number.

What is a 3-season sleeping bag?

A bag whose comfort rating lands roughly 0 to -5 C (upper-20s to low-20s F) - warm enough for spring through autumn nights at most elevations, too warm and too heavy for high summer at low altitude. It is the default first-bag recommendation because it covers the widest honest window; a summer bag (+10 C comfort) and a winter bag (-10 C and below) bracket it.

Why am I still cold in a bag rated warmer than the night?

Two usual culprits, in order: the pad underneath (ratings assume adequate ground insulation, and cold ground pulls heat faster than cold air), and moisture - a bag slept in damp, or in clothes sweated through on the hike in, loses loft and with it the still-air layer that does the insulating. Dry socks and a dry bag liner restore more warmth than another base layer.

Can I zip two sleeping bags together?

Only if both are right-zip and left-zip versions of compatible lines - then yes, it makes a double bag, with one honest caveat: two bodies each add humidity, and the combined bag's effective rating drops a class if either sleeper runs cold. For couples who camp apart sometimes, buying the zip-pair versions beats improvising two mismatched zips that were never tested together.

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