Dead Pixel Checker

readyblack · red · green · blue · white
What you sawOn blackOn whiteVerdict
Bright dotglowsinvisiblehot pixel - all sub-pixels stuck on
Dark dotinvisibleblackdead pixel - panel electronics
Fixed color dotshiftsshiftsstuck pixel - one sub-pixel jammed
Dark blob, shifts with angleanyanydust - clean the glass, not a defect
Warranty desks ask for the color, the column and the row - note the position before you leave fullscreen. Manufacturers typically allow a few bright dots (policies range 3-7) before a panel swap; a dark blob that moves is dust, not a pixel.

A dead pixel hides in normal content and stands out on pure color - which is why every proper screen test is just your panel showing solid red, green, blue, white and black, one fullscreen at a time, while your eyes walk the surface.

Bottom line: start the cycle, grab a soft cloth, wipe the dust off first, then scan each color slowly. Black exposes bright defects, white exposes dark ones, and the three primaries expose pixels stuck on a single sub-pixel - five colors, one minute, every class of defect.

The honest part: not every dark dot is a warranty case. A dead pixel (black on white) and a stuck pixel (one frozen color) are panel electronics; a dark blob that shifts when you tilt the screen or press the bezel gently is dust or a pressure mark under the glass - fixable by cleaning or time, and not a defect a manufacturer will swap a panel for.

How to use

  1. Clean the screen with a dry microfiber cloth first - dust is the number one false positive. Then press Start test and let the page go fullscreen; it cycles red, green, blue, white and black every three seconds, or click to advance early.
  2. On each color, sweep your eyes in rows from corner to corner. Black finds hot pixels (always lit) and bright dust; white finds dead pixels (always dark) and pressure marks; red, green and blue each expose pixels frozen on one sub-pixel.
  3. Press Esc or tap the exit corner to leave fullscreen, then classify what you saw with the table below before contacting support - screenshot the color and position (count columns from the left) because warranty desks ask for both.
Good to know โ€” Test colors and what they expose: black - hot pixels, bright dust; white - dead pixels, pressure marks, backlight bleed; red/green/blue - pixels stuck on a single sub-pixel (each sub-pixel lights alone on its matching primary). Defect classes: dead = all sub-pixels off (black everywhere); stuck = one sub-pixel jammed (fixed color dot); hot = all sub-pixels on (bright on black). Not defects: dust (dark blob, shifts with viewing angle, moves when the glass is cleaned), pressure marks (liquid-crystal damage, pale irregular shape, often fades). Typical warranty bright-dot allowance: 3-7 depending on maker, 1-2 in the central zone on strict policies.
Quick reference โ€” Run this test the week the panel arrives, not the week before the warranty ends - dead-pixel policies count from purchase date, and a documented report in week one (color, column, row) is the entire evidence a support desk needs. Re-run monthly on the black screen only; it is the one color that catches a dying pixel early.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a dead, stuck and hot pixel?

A dead pixel shows black on every background because all three sub-pixels are off; a stuck pixel holds a single color (often red or blue) because one sub-pixel jams; a hot pixel glows white or bright on black because all sub-pixels are stuck on. Dead is the hardest to fix; stuck pixels sometimes yield to rapid color-cycling tools.

How many dead pixels does it take for warranty replacement?

Policies vary and are mostly stricter than people hope: many laptop makers allow a cluster of bright defects (commonly 3-7, or 1-2 within a small central zone) before a panel swap; some premium lines promise zero bright-dot panels. Check your manufacturer's policy page with the exact count and position from this test in hand - that is what the support agent will ask for first.

Can a stuck pixel be fixed at home?

Sometimes. Rapid full-screen color cycling for ten to thirty minutes revives jammed sub-pixels in a share of cases, and a gentle pressure massage through a cloth on the exact spot is the folk remedy that occasionally works - both are safe when brief. A permanently dead pixel does not respond to either; only a panel replacement changes it.

Why does my camera find spots my eyes miss, and the reverse?

A phone camera on the screen at high zoom catches sub-pixel defects smaller than your eye resolves at arm's length - but the camera adds its own hot pixels as noise. Use the camera to locate, then confirm with your naked eye at the fullscreen color; warranty claims are judged by what a person sees, not by sensor artifacts.

Related tools